By Tim Surgent
One of the most versatile patterns I tie and the only pattern that I can completely say was entirely my design. Even that wouldn't be 100% true, I used the silicone techniques learned from some of Bob Popovic's patterns like the Silicone Mullet. This fly has not just taken a multitude of different species, but it's done so when most other patterns have failed to do so...that makes it special in my book. Personally, I've caught stripers, weakfish, bluefish, fluke, sundials, false albacore, bonito, Spanish mackerel, star gazers, and sea-run cut throat's on it...and not just one or two, but tons of each! I just made them available to the public about 12 months ago and hundreds of folks now can't be without them. |
| Materials: 34007 hook, size 1 to 3/0 white bucktail - non flaring hair preferred peacock herl pearl flashabou or crystal flash silver mylar tubing for body silicone Photoflo 1/8"-3/16" prism eyes, silver w/black pupil Start the thread just forward of the bend of a 34007 hook, size 1 to 3/0. I prefer white or clear monofilament thread. The monofilament doesn't make as neat a finished head as the white thread, but it does look nice. |
 |
| Wrap a small, fairly straight bunch of white bucktail in at this point. Make sure to keep the hair on top of the hook and tie it so as not to flair the hair. Trim the butt ends flush and wrap over them so as to not interfere with the mylar tubing for the body. These hair should be should be about double the length of the flat part of the hook. *You can either add two pieces of flash on each side of the tail now or you can add them just prior to the peacock herl step. |  |
| Take a proper length piece of silver mylar tubing with the cotton core removed and slide it over the hook so the rear of it reaches slightly past the thread wraps for the bucktail. Carefully make 4 or 5 wraps over the tubing as shown in the photo to the right. Whip finish at that point and cut the thread. |  |
| Restart the thread at the head of the fly on top of the mylar tubing. You will twist the mylar tubing in doing this, just twist it back once you get 4 or 5 wraps on it to hold it in place. Trim the mylar that will extend beyond the thread taking care to never let your materials clutter up the eye of the hook. |  |
| This is a full view of the fly up to this point. Note that all materials are on top of the shank and the head is neat and the eye clear. That's all important. One of the keys to this fly is that the shiny silver mylar body shows through the silicone unobstructed...just like it does in a real spearing. For an even more realistic spearing, you can pull and shape the mylar body before tying it...but that's an advanced step, don't worry, they'll eat this one fine! ;-) If you were looking to add another color to the fly, add it here, before the herl! I like olive sometimes...just a little. I suppose yellow, pink, chartreuse, blue, or green would work. | 
Keep all materials on the top! |
| This is a full view of the fly up to this point. Note that all materials are on top of the shank and the head is neat and the eye clear. That's all important. One of the keys to this fly is that the shiny silver mylar body shows through the silicone unobstructed...just like it does in a real spearing. For an even more realistic spearing, you can pull and shape the mylar body before tying it...but that's an advanced step, don't worry, they'll eat this one fine! ;-) If you were looking to add another color to the fly, add it here, before the herl! I like olive sometimes...just a little. I suppose yellow, pink, chartreuse, blue, or green would work. | 
All set for the peacock herl. |
| Now for the peacock herl or topping. I have always used and will likely always use real peacock herl. Yes, it's probably one of the most frail materials regularly used. It's also the one that is absolutely magic. Peacock herl isn't one color, it's many - from blue to olive to metallic green to drab green and brown...and when wet, the tiny fibers come to life. I tie 90% of my flies with peacock herl and I've seen many flies stop working once the herl is gone. Lay 6-10 pieces of herl, somewhat evened at the tip end but not so much that it loses the taper. Tie them in on top of the flash or bucktail...keep them on top of the hook. Clip the butts of the herl neatly. Wrap over the butts with the thread to make a nice neat head, whip finish and cut the thread...this one's ready for the silicone! | 
All done tying, now for the silicone! |
| Working with silicone is not that difficult...it's not easy, but it's also not difficult. You must use something to keep the silicone from sticking to your fingers, if it sticks to your fingers, you'll never get the proper shape. I prefer Photoflo, it's available in any camera/photography supply store. I think it's about $8-$10 a bottle. Don't let that scare you, I've had my original 16oz bottle for about a dozen years now, it lasts. Dish soap and water will work I'm told, but for less than $1/year, I'll take the Photoflo! So, you put the Photoflo in a jar large enough to stick a couple fingers in so you can reapply when needed...and now you start applying the silicone to the fly. I generally put the silicone right on the fly as shown here. | 
A little silicone on one side and the top... |
| Then I'll put some silicone on the other side of the fly as shown here. Then dip your fingers, I dip my pointer and middle finger and then rub those together with the thumb on that hand...those three fingers are all you will use. The first thing I do is lift the herl some and then squeeze the silicone from both sides of the fly into that area...then put the herl down and begin shaping the spearing. This is where you'll need the trial and error lesson. You're trying to make this thing look like a spearing from the sides, from the bottom, and from the front. Shaping it is up to you. I don't let much silicone get beyond the hook bend, just a little to help with fouling on the cast. | 
and a little silicone on this side.... |
| Here's the finished shape that I shoot for. This one actually is far from perfect, but the general shape is good. At this point, stick an eye on each side and poke it slightly into the silicone with something sharp like your scissors or bodkin. I like my eyes placed just behind where the thread wraps are visible under the silicone and slightly above center. Dip your fingers again, lightly, and smooth over the silicone covering the eyes. Now smooth the whole fly again...you may even have to reshape it some, depending on how well the whole eye application went. That's it, you're all done, now keep it away from the bluefish if you can! | 
Now it's time for the eyes! |
